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I wore it for the first time in early autumn, and I saw the windbreaker!


Clothes are like people, some have been stunned for a long time, and some have been happy for the first time. The trench coat is not dry, it has to step on two boats.


▲After the first autumn rain, the gentle knife of the windbreaker accurately stepped on the time and entered the streets and alleys. When other items were still fighting with the gods, it generously blew up a light for itself: classic, high-end, full of rain and wind.


▲ is not a hard boast, the trench coat can sit firmly in the "classic" position in the ever-changing trend, first of all, thanks to its "hereditary" historical lineage. It wasn't the fashion industry that really became popular, it was the First World War.


▲ From its name, Trench Coat, you can smell the story. The environment of the trenches is harsh, and the clothes that can be used as military uniforms for commanders must have extremely high requirements for functionality. At that time, khaki (the original word for "dust" in India) was good for camouflage, and the gabardine fabric was waterproof and breathable, and the trench coat that combined the two was immediately put to military use.

1973年BURBERRY广告


▲ The person who invented the gabardine fabric is Thomas Burberry, the founder of the windbreaker family BURBERRY. After the war, this kind of knee-length clothes, with epaulettes, grab (that is, the piece of fabric on the chest of the trench coat), rain shield (the one on the back), belt buckles and D-rings became the sweets of the film and fashion circles.


Kate Moss' Fall/Winter 1999 BURBERRY Fall/Winter campaign

Photo: Mario Testino


▲The trench coat's retention of military elements makes it look like it has a "long-lasting" experience. In women, it reflects a kind of wisdom, handsomeness and open-mindedness accumulated over the years. Especially in the black and white photos, the color is erased, and the classic of "it just works" is still so impactful.


▲Now in 9102, in the face of such a wardrobe king, celebrity bloggers have begun to quietly divide into two ways. All the way like @karoina_maras to take the nostalgic route, the trench coat is still the old version, the old elements and the old taste, the fit is classic, and it lasts for a long time.

@Burberry


▲ On the other hand, they are trying to find a new way and are determined to change the face of the traditional trench coat. The version and design of "never getting tired of being around for a long time" can have a new way of wearing "love at first sight"?

 Yes! The contrast between the old and the new, as long as there is a little bit of "difference"!

 Past: Wear it open

VS

 Now: Wear it with a belt as a skirt




▲In the past, I always unswervingly believed that the windbreaker and windbreaker naturally had to be worn open to the wind. Actually, buckle up, tie your belt, and expose your calves, and you'll be pleasantly surprised!


▲ Some windbreakers with draped fabrics are worn as skirts, and the once righteous military uniform suddenly turns into a goblin with an aura. If you don't feel new enough, you can also write about the colors, designs, and belts.


▲For example, forget about neutral colors, put the sunset yellow, ocean blue and other highly saturated colors dedicated to the tea break dress, and bring a "afternoon tea" filter on the street.


▲Or, remove the sleeves in the original version, tie an external belt, and keep the same color all over the body, which is also OK. But the premise is that the arm line must be passed.


▲ And the trench coat skirt on these hipsters, the double-breasted button is removed, and the overall rule of less is more is more is pursued. The key lies in the selection of belts, and avoid thickened models with rich pockets. Delicate and high-quality can reflect delicacy and elegance.

 Past: Fitted cropping

VS 

 Now: a little longer, a little more down



▲ The windbreaker in the previous advertising shots often gave people a "fit of luxury". Now the trench coat is more and more on the street, and under the influence of the chic and free leisure culture, the original rules of cut, version, and length have all been lifted.

  


▲In memory, the classic trench coat always looks "one board and one eye", with a clear shoulder line and a neat version, which looks like it is tailor-made. And now? For example, Suzy's piece, which is ankle-length, is a little ruffian, and the sense of space created by rolling up the sleeves is handsome, as if you can gallop on the street in the next second.


▲ deliberately made one size larger, in fact, is a return to the commander-in-chief temperament of the trench coat itself, which moves freely and sassy. With small and delicate bags, you can just complete a big drama of motherly balance.


▲ Test whether the margin of the trench coat is enough, you only need to bend your arms and look at the wrinkles of the sleeves to judge. Trench coats with a classic fit tend to have more folds because they are slimmer than the sleeve cages, unlike oversized trench coats, which are more inclusive.


Rest assured, this trench coat stands firmly on the opposite side of "crampedness" and "bloated feeling", and you can wear it freely inside, so you don't have to worry about it at all. As for shoes, you can wear them with boots to avoid cold on your bare legs.


▲ You can also match the more ruffian shoes in sunny and warm weather, so that they can last shine before leaving the field in summer.

 Past: Uniform Style

VS 

 Now: reject the epaulettes


▲There are many elements in the classic trench coat belt, among them, the epaulette has always been an indispensable small part. It makes people look very energetic, but at the same time, it is also easy to have a "uniform feeling" of rotten streets. So now many bloggers are starting to target some simple trench coats with epaulettes removed.


▲Do you think that windbreakers with epaulettes generally look more complicated? Once removed, the trench coat immediately takes off its military identity and ranks among the minimalist areas.


▲Although the trench coat without epaulettes does not highlight and strengthen the shoulder line, the muscles and bones are still there, but there is a simple sense of pioneering. Even the traditional cuff can be removed. The inside is matched with neutral colors, not show-off, not ostentatious.


▲ Easily tie the belt around the waist (don't wear that D-ring, just tie a knot), feel free to return to the style, and the style is still sonorous and powerful.

 Past: cotton, cotton

VS 

 Now: leather fabrics




▲Since its birth, although the fabrics of the trench coat have maintained diversification, the street photos we see every day are still dominated by machine-blended and cotton-twill fabrics. Have you ever thought of a bright piece of skin?



▲Although the leather looks high-key, the street index is extremely high, and it is not easy to hit the model. Moreover, the luster of the leather has a wild nature, which a khaki trench coat can't strive for.


▲Xiao Song Jia paired a plaid skirt and a bubble noodle head, demonstrating the Hong Kong style of the 90s when Western trends and Eastern aesthetics collided.


▲The popularity of leather trench coats has always been questioned, because in the eyes of many people, leather is a slightly aggressive fabric. Actually, this can be balanced by layering a skirt underneath.


And when it comes to the greasy feeling of leather, in fact, not only everyone is afraid, but also bloggers. Therefore, they also pay special attention to the texture, and have high requirements for the luster, softness and hardness of the leather, and the wear resistance. After all, wearing a trench coat, the style can be changed, and the aura must not be lost.

 In the past: there is no shortage of grabs and rain shields

VS 

 Now: big pocket workwear style



▲ Among the design details of the classic trench coat, the most soulful should be the two pieces of "cloth" at the front and back. In fact, they all have very military names, and the front one is called "Rush". True, it was originally intended to reduce the recoil of a firearm on the body. And the one behind him is called "rain shield".


▲Today, these two pieces of cloth have been completely decommissioned and turned into decorations. What happens if you take it out and replace it with two large symmetrical pockets on the left and right? Please look at Zhang Tianai's piece, the sense of workwear immediately gives the windbreaker a kind of down-to-earth energy of "rolling up your sleeves and working hard".


▲ Bloggers have repeatedly proven that this "physical change" can provoke a "chemical reaction". Wearing it, not to mention full of energy, your steps become more confident and powerful.


▲Because the workwear elements themselves also emphasize functionality, it is not inconsistent with the windbreaker. You can button it up and wear it as a skirt and add a little more force to your accessories. For example, a fluorescent waist bag makes it easier for the whole look to stand out.


▲ flat hats, hip-hop sunglasses, etc., those items in the next door can also be included in the painting, giving the always dignified windbreaker a heartbeat jio!

 The first time you wear it in early autumn, whether the trench coat is classic or novel depends on you!


label: windbreak
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